![\"scheki](\"https:\/\/wildeast.blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Heinz-Heilmann-Scheki-Alltag-1024x683.jpg\")
Something about the history of Sheki<\/h2>\n\n
The history of \u015e\u0259ki dates back over 2000 years. Before it was annexed by Russia in 1805, \u015e\u0259ki (then Nukha) was the capital of an independent khanate. For its defense, Khan Haci \u00c7el\u0259bi had two forts built. From the more northerly one at Ki\u015f, he defended fiercely against the advancing Persians in the 18th century. According to legend, when Nadir Shah wondered who dared oppose him, \u00c7el\u0259bi replied “Come and see!”, (“G\u0259l\u0259rsen g\u00f6r\u0259rs\u0259n”), which gave the fortress its name, which is still valid today. Sheki itself sank in the floods of the Ki\u015f River in 1772 and was rebuilt as Nukha near the Khan’s second fortress.<\/p>\n\n
It was not until 1968 that Nukha was renamed \u015e\u0259ki again. Three large caravanserais still bear witness to the importance that \u015e\u0259ki once had as a trading center between Dagestan and the trade route running south. Silk (ipek, pronounced “ipe\u00e7” in the \u015e\u04d9ki dialect) produced in \u015e\u0259ki played a special role, a coveted commodity on the stations of the Silk Road. In the Soviet era, the largest silk factory in the USSR (then Lenin Combine) was established in \u015e\u0259ki with over 7000 workers. After its collapse in the 1990s, silk production has since been revived and is fully functional again. How the scarves and shawls popular with tourists are made can be seen live there by appointment (tel. +994\/(0)24\/2461847).<\/p>\n\n
Things to see in Sheki<\/h2>\n\n
\u015e\u0259ki is an elongated city that becomes increasingly attractive towards the north. Between the bus station and the old town lies the modern center with the bazaar. I have been around the center myself on foot and for longer distances by marshrutka (minibus) or cab.<\/p>\n\n
Discoveries on the way up<\/h3>\n\n
From the center, a tranquil path leads along the Qurian\u00e7ay River and attractive old town facades to caravanserais, fortress and palace. However, it does go steeply uphill. A walk there is well sweetened with \u015e\u0259ki’s halva, a pink baklava specialty made of honey and nuts, sold along the river. The best halva store is on the right side of the river, opposite the chess school, in a white house.<\/p>\n\n
The large caravanserais from the 18th and 19th centuries have so far only been partially revived. While one houses a popular hotel, another, next to the \u00c7ingiz Club with a cinema and exhibitions, currently sells souvenirs.<\/p>\n\n
It is also worth mentioning the Bio Garden Sheki. This was founded in 2009 and covers 8 hectares. You can find more information here<\/a>. The owner of the plantation personally guides his guests through his property and explains the fruit varieties. You can also pick and taste fruit. The plantation is also a refuge for ducks, geese and various chicken birds from all over the world.<\/p>\n\n A few minutes walk northeast from the Caravanserai Hotel stands the historic fortress with the palace and numerous museums. The Khan Palace (Xan Saray), probably \u015e\u0259ki’s most famous attraction, was built at the end of the 18th century in Ottoman style and allegedly without a single nail. It was the summer residence of the khans of \u015e\u0259ki. At the same time, the building is surprisingly small, with a depth of just eight meters. It was carefully restored around 2000 under the direction of the Mecklenburg Department for the Preservation of Historical Monuments, and so one can fully indulge in the frenzy of colors of the naively realistic painted residence. A tour allows an interesting insight into the world of the Orient in the Khanate \u015e\u0259ki. Unfortunately, it is not allowed to take pictures or film inside the palace.<\/p>\n\n The high doorsteps served for thermal insulation, but in the dim light of the colorful \u015e\u0259b\u0259k\u0259 windows they easily tempt one to stumble. The central room on the upper floor is decorated with heroic battle scenes of \u00c7el\u0259bi, while the right room with more flowers and birds served as the chamber of the women from the harem. The balcony offers the best view of an approximately 500-year-old plane tree in the courtyard. The entrance to the palace is allowed only within a guided tour.<\/p>\n\n Uwe Henschel from Schwerin<\/a> was responsible for the restoration of the Khans Palace between 2001 and 2004 as project manager of the Monument Preservation Mecklenburg with funds from the World Bank and the country of Azerbaijan. The project was, of course, an extraordinary challenge for the civil engineer. In those days, even water, gas and electricity were scarce in \u015e\u0259ki. Local construction workers earned about $10 a day at the palace, a large sum in those days and more than the average wage in Azerbaijan. But the effort was worth it, and the Khans’ Palace has been restored to historical detail and is a tourist magnet for the entire region.<\/p>\n\n Within the fortress walls you will find a simple restaurant (“kafen”) and below it a plush painting gallery with local and national artworks. But it, too, provides a wonderful glimpse into regional Azerbaijani art. In general, many creative people seem to gather in Sheki.<\/p>\n\n Next door there is an Ethnographic Museum worth seeing, guarded by a whole squad of friendly attendants, with finds from the G\u0259l\u0259rs\u0259n G\u00f6r\u0259rs\u0259n fortress, silk fabric designs, information about the Russian and Soviet times in \u015e\u0259ki, as well as about independence since 1991. The museum also displays carpets, as well as pewter and other metal vessels, glasses, divans, farming tools, paintings – all in all a great insight into centuries of exciting history in and around \u015e\u0259ki. At the exit of the museum you can buy local souvenirs and especially silk scarf products at good prices in a store. Anyway, I bought some silk scarves and other silk products in the museum and the gifted women back in Germany were very happy.<\/p>\n\n There is also a manageable exhibition of regional carpet designs and embroidery in an old Orthodox garrison church, located to the left of the Ethnographic Museum.<\/p>\n\n In Sheki – below the Khan Palace – an extraordinary Azerbaijani artist has his studio. A row of large and small ceramic figures outside points the way there. But one after the other … <\/p>\n\n In Baku’s old town, one house in particular stands out in the narrow streets. It is full of artistically designed ceramics. Even when I was in Baku for the first time, I noticed this unique house. Other tourists also stopped in front of it and took selfies. But I didn’t dare to ring the bell there. Like a puzzle, the original ceramics fit together to form a mosaic of Azerbaijani motifs. An artist who decorated every single stone on the walls of his house with different art objects? Original! The historic-looking Turkish tamgas (from Mongolian “stamp”) give the house a special flair. Who might own this house, I often asked myself. Now it is clear: it belongs to the artist Mir Teymur Mammadov, who lives and works in Baku and \u015e\u0259ki.<\/p>\n\n In October 2018, Mir Mammadov – in the presence of Azerbaijani President Ilham Aliyev – opened his spacious ceramics workshop in \u015e\u0259ki. Several such artist centers in the country are to follow, the artist, born in 1947, explains in perfect Russian. In May 2019, I visited the artist himself in \u015e\u0259ki in his ceramic workshop. Here you can see Teymur Mammadov’s work for yourself.<\/p>\n\n In the historic walls of a former barracks, about ten renovated rooms were created: a hall for painting, a hall for ceramics production, a large room with kilns, a spacious kitchen, but also bedrooms for the artists and the boss. The highlight is the store, where all the wonderfully designed exhibits – creative and also exquisite souvenirs – can be admired and bought. Among them are vases with typical Azerbaijani motifs, figurines, paintings, graphics and much more. In the end, everything is artfully packaged by the saleswomen and you can even pay by credit card. If you want, you can sign the guest book, as I did.<\/p>\n\n The ten or so artists who work and exhibit here include Azerbaijanis from \u015e\u0259ki and Baku, but also Lesgians from \u015e\u0259ki and the surrounding area. Ms. Sevic is a bakinka,<\/em> “someone from Baku,” who enjoys living and working here in the province. She creates ceramics, especially vases, and smiles happily.<\/p>\n\n Mammadov speaks Azerbaijani, Russian and some English. He is not shy in front of the media, strangers and tourists. On weekends he is in Baku with his family, but during the week all his heart and soul is devoted to the ceramics workshop in Sheki. For years he had planned, organized, built and made connections for this project. Now his lifelong dream has become a reality. The artist very much regrets that there is no special ceramics museum in Azerbaijan.<\/p>\n\n Mir began to show interest in ceramic art at the age of five. When his family became aware of his talent, they supported him to the best of their ability. First he graduated from the art school in Baku, then from 1968 to 1978 he studied ceramic art at the Leningrad Art Academy, and during these years he became a specialist in this art form. Mir Teymur has devoted over 60 years of his life to ceramics. His trademark is the old Turkish tamgas and fine dots. In December 2020, I had contact with the artist again and we were both happy to hear from each other, despite Corona.<\/p>\n\n Mir Teymur, who also works as an ethnographer, researches the history of the Turkic peoples, especially the Azerbaijanis, and reflects their culture, language, alphabet, and mental outlook on his artwork. He is especially fond of clay and ceramics. He wants to pass on his art, his knowledge and the ancient art of the Turkic peoples to the next generation. We wish him success and lots of visitors!<\/p>\n\n If you want to go to the famous silk factory of Sheki, you can go there for example with the marshrutkas and the inscription “\u0130p\u0259k fabriki \u015e\u0259ki” (Ipek fabriki Sheki)\/ “\u0428\u0435\u043b\u043a\u043e\u0432\u0430\u044f \u0444\u0430\u0431\u0440\u0438\u043a\u0430” or by cab. There is a factory store there for the beautiful silk fabrics. There is also a tobacco factory in \u015e\u0259ki, the \u015e\u0259ki T\u00fct\u00fcn Fabriki.<\/p>\n\n In the evening, I took a detour to a new shopping center with an art house cinema in the south of the city, just outside. Similar to the Flame Towers Baku in the national colors of Azerbaijan, the glass facade was also illuminated here. The center is called “ASAN xidm\u0259t.” Here, 250 services such as marriage certificates, driver’s licenses and passports are issued unbureaucratically. Everything is equipped with the latest technology. Sometimes you are amazed in Azerbaijan – at the contrasts between rich and poor, between Baku and the provinces, the wealth of ideas and the incredible hospitality.<\/p>\n\n In the cinema I saw with much muse the Azerbaijani film “Taksi Liza”. A film comedy about a small cab driver, important art – Mona Lisa – and the great love. Because when and where can I see films from Azerbaijan in the cinema in Berlin?<\/p>\n\n Since it was early in the afternoon after all the sightseeing, I wanted to take advantage of the hour and drive to the small village of Ki\u015f above \u015e\u0259ki, which is about 7 km. By chance I saw a cab at a tea room. I asked the driver if we could go to Ki\u015f (pronounced Kish) together. Hassan the cab driver was happy to have a new job. Just the night before last, he had taken a cab with French tourists all the way to Georgia. We conversed fluently in Russian and his gold-tipped teeth showed as he laughed.<\/p>\n\n After about 15 min we arrived in Kisch, many signs pointed to the “Albanian Temple” – the old Albanian church. Lovely mountains, paths over two bridges and narrow roads towards the Caucasus led to Ki\u015f. We parked right by the church. A little above there was a monument with the portrait of the Norwegian adventurer, anthropologist, environmental activist and ethnologist Thor Heyerdahl. Some Azerbaijani men were playing Nard, a popular board game, here. Thor Heyerdahl (1914\u20132002) had been to Azerbaijan many times in the 1980s and found similarities between Vikings and ancestors in Azerbaijan, including petroglyphs in Qobustan<\/a> south of Baku. The Norwegian also campaigned for the restoration of the Albanian Church in Ki\u015f.<\/p>\n\n The impressive result can be admired today. With Norwegian support, excavations were carried out in and around the historic church from 2000 to 2003, which indicate that the sanctuary has a history of about 5000 years. The history of early Christianity in Azerbaijan has now been made visible in parts by uncovering graves, among other things. Furthermore, the shape of the church, which was “armenianized ” around 1900, has been reconstructed in favor of its older – Albanian – form from the 12th century. Already in the 5th century the ancient church of St. Elisha was found here.<\/p>\n\n The “Caucasian Albania” was a kingdom on the territory of modern Azerbaijan, but also in adjacent neighboring countries. Monastery complexes and churches were built from the 5th to the 7th century. For example, “The Seven Churches” (Yeddi Kilse) from the 6th\/7th century. In the 12th and 13th centuries the Albanian principalities gained more and more importance. During this period, Grand Prince Hassan Jalal Dovla was crowned King of Albania. All this led to further development of Christian culture and architecture in the region. Evidence of this can be found today mainly in Western Azerbaijan – around Gandja, around \u015e\u0259ki and in Nagorno-Karabakh. Only later Christianity was gradually replaced by Islam in this region. The “Caucasian Albania” is related to today’s Albania in name only, but no more.<\/p>\n\n You can enter the fenced church grounds after paying a small entrance fee. Mrs. Ilhama H\u00fcseynova – she also speaks English and Russian – is the profound connoisseur of the history and present of this museum complex. She is in all the usual travel guides from Lonely Planet to Trescher. She likes to show vases and clay vessels from the excavations and the renovated interior of the church. I am really impressed to see so much history live. Large panels bring the history of this Albanian church to life. Just across the street is Ilhama’s summer restaurant, where drinks, tea and small meals are available at reasonable prices. She can also arrange accommodations on request.<\/p>\n\n Over tea, I can finally talk longer with Hassan, “my” cab driver. He tells me a lot about life in Azerbaijan, how difficult it was in the 1990s and how much things have improved recently. Many went to Russia to work back then, but have since returned. Of course, cab driving is a tough business, but his German car holds up on the gravel roads in the Azerbaijani mountains. With a little English and especially Russian, he gets by linguistically well.<\/p>\n\n By the way, “Salam” is the most important word in Azerbaijan for foreigners. With “hello\/good day” you will be well received everywhere. And \u00c7ay (tea) is always part of life in Azerbaijan, as you would quickly realize (read more about Azerbaijani cuisine here<\/a>).<\/p>\n\n For many years the caravanserai was by far the most popular accommodation in \u015e\u0259ki. In the meantime, the Saray Hotel is considered better. For narrower budgets, the Panorama Hotel, which lives up to its name, is especially recommended.<\/p>\n\n![\"scheki](\"https:\/\/wildeast.blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Khan-Palast-1024x683.jpg\")
Fortress and Khan Palace<\/h2>\n\n
Restoration of the Khans Palace<\/h3>\n\n
Galleries and museums in the palace<\/h3>\n\n
![\"Sheki](\"https:\/\/wildeast.blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/DSCI3172-1024x682.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wildeast.blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Mir_Teymur_Mamadov_Foto2_KuenstlerSheki_Aserb_10_19_61611079_2496107967107075_2477577826300067840_o-1024x683.jpg\")
Mir Teymur Mammadov – A Contemporary Artist in Sheki and Baku<\/h2>\n\n
![\"scheki](\"https:\/\/wildeast.blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/werkstatt-Mammadov-1024x682.jpg\")
Mammadov’s workshop<\/h2>\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wildeast.blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Scheki_FrauSevinj_Keramikwerkstatt-1024x684.jpg\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wildeast.blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/DSCI3154-1024x683.jpg\")
The silk factory of Sheki<\/h2>\n\n
Modern shopping temple<\/h2>\n\n
![\"scheki](\"https:\/\/wildeast.blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/alltag-Kisch-mit-Denkmal-Heyerdahl-684x1024.jpg\")
The village of Kish near Sheki with the Albanian Church<\/h2>\n\n
Thor Heyerdahl and the renovation of the church<\/h2>\n\n
![\"scheki](\"https:\/\/wildeast.blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Denkmal-Heyerdahl-Kish-1024x683.jpg\")
The “Caucasian Albania”<\/h2>\n\n
![\"scheki](\"https:\/\/wildeast.blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/albanische-kirche-aussen-682x1024.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"scheki](\"https:\/\/wildeast.blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/albanische-kirche-innen-682x1024.jpg\")
<\/figure>\nThe Church<\/h2>\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wildeast.blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Kirsche-Kisch-Aussen-1024x683.jpg\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wildeast.blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/taxi-scheki-1024x684.jpg\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wildeast.blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/DSCI3150-1024x682.jpg\")
Tourist information \u015e\u0259ki\/Sheki<\/h2>\n\n
![\"scheki](\"https:\/\/wildeast.blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Heinz-Heilmann-Sheki-Palace-1024x683.jpg\")
Hotels<\/h3>\n\n
Restaurants<\/h3>\n\n
Practical information Ki\u015f\/Kish<\/h2>\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wildeast.blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Aserbaidschan-2020_9783897944862-647x1024.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n